Lake Titicaca from Puno
Lake Titicaca, shared between Peru and Bolivia, lies at around 3,810 metres above sea level and is often described as the highest navigable lake in the world. From Puno, on the Peruvian shore, almost all boats leave for the three most visited islands on this side: the Uros, Taquile and Amantaní. Each shows a different way of living on the lake, and understanding those differences before you go changes the whole experience.
Much of the Bay of Puno is part of the Titicaca National Reserve, created to protect the reed beds and the lake's wildlife, including the Titicaca grebe, a flightless bird found only here.
The Uros islands: living on reeds
The Uros are artificial islands built by families of the Uro people from blocks of roots and layers of totora, the aquatic reed that grows in the lake. They must be renewed constantly by adding fresh reeds on top, because the layers underneath slowly rot in the water. Houses, traditional reed boats and much of the handicrafts are also made from this plant.
They are about 20 to 30 minutes by boat from Puno's port, so you can visit them in half a day. Families take turns welcoming visitors, explain how they build and anchor the islands, and offer an optional ride on a reed boat and handicrafts for sale. Yes, it is a very touristy visit, and it is better to know that in advance: tourism is now one of these families' main sources of income, and the way to keep that relationship fair is to visit with real curiosity, buy directly and avoid aggressive haggling.
Taquile: textile art as a way of life
Taquile is further away, about 2.5 to 3 hours by traditional boat from Puno (less by fast boat). It is an island of stone, farming terraces and cobbled paths, home to a Quechua-speaking community that maintains a very strong communal organisation.
Its textile art was proclaimed a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2005 and inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2008. Here it is the men who knit the chullos, the hats with ear flaps, while the women spin and weave belts and other garments on looms. Clothing carries information: the colour and design of a chullo, for example, show the wearer's marital status or community role. Crafts are sold in a community shop by the main square, a good way to make sure the money reaches the weavers.
Reaching the main square involves a climb of about 30 to 45 minutes on paths and stone steps, at almost 4,000 metres: take it slowly.
Amantaní: a night with a family
Amantaní is the largest island on the Peruvian side of the lake and the best option for an overnight stay. Families from its communities take turns hosting travellers in their homes: you share dinner (quinoa soup, native potatoes, cheese or trout, depending on the house), sleep in simple rooms, and some nights there is a party with music where families lend their traditional clothes to their guests. Facilities are basic: there may be no hot water or heating, and electricity is limited.
At sunset most visitors climb one of the island's two sacred hills, Pachatata and Pachamama, with views over the lake and, on clear days, Bolivia's Cordillera Real.
How to plan your visit
- Half day: the Uros only, ideal if you have little time in Puno.
- Full day: the Uros and Taquile, with lunch on Taquile. It is a long day with many hours on the boat.
- Two days: the Uros, a night on Amantaní and Taquile the next day. It is the most complete option and allows a slower, closer contact with the communities.
When choosing a guide, ask how visits are shared among families, whether the boat carries life jackets for everyone and which language the explanations will be in. A guide from the region can tell the story of the islands far better than a recorded commentary; in the local culture in Puno section you will find offers from local guides.
Best time to go and weather
The dry season, from May to October, brings clear skies, very strong sun during the day and freezing nights: in June and July night-time temperatures can drop below zero. The rainy season, from December to March, is greener and less busy, but also brings afternoon storms and rougher water. In February Puno celebrates the Festival of the Virgen de la Candelaria, one of Peru's largest festivities and also on UNESCO's intangible heritage list: if your trip coincides with it, book well in advance.
Altitude and health
Puno sits above 3,800 metres. If you arrive from the coast, spend one or two days acclimatising before the long excursion: walk slowly, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol on the first night and eat light. If you have a severe headache, nausea or shortness of breath that does not improve, see a doctor. Coca tea helps some people, but it does not replace acclimatisation.
What to bring
- Layered clothing, a hat and gloves for the night, and a warm jacket for the boat.
- High-factor sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat: at this altitude the radiation is very intense.
- Cash in soles, in small notes: on the islands you can hardly pay by card.
- A torch, if you are staying overnight on Amantaní.
- A small backpack: for the night on Amantaní the essentials are enough.
Visiting respectfully
- Ask permission before photographing people, especially children and older people.
- Do not give sweets or money to children. If you want to contribute, buy handicrafts or hand school supplies to the school or the community authorities.
- On Amantaní, adapt to the rhythm and food of the household; a small contribution to the kitchen (fruit, rice, cooking oil) is usually welcome.
- Learn a couple of greetings in Quechua or Aymara: they open conversations.
- Do not leave rubbish on the islands: waste management is difficult in the middle of a lake.
On Trekonda you can contact local guides in Puno directly, with no commission, and plan the visit at your own pace. For more ideas on experiences with the lake's communities, see the cultural tourism in Puno section.
Frequently asked questions
Is it worth visiting the Uros if they are so touristy?
Yes, if you know what to expect. It is a unique way of life, and hearing how the islands are built and maintained is fascinating. Combine it with Taquile or Amantaní to see another side of the lake.
Is there an entrance fee for the islands?
Yes, the islands charge a modest community fee separate from transport. Some packages include it and others do not, so ask when booking.
Can I go on my own?
There are shared boats from Puno's port, but with a guide you understand much more about each island's history and customs, and the night on Amantaní is easier to arrange.
Is it safe to sleep on Amantaní?
Yes, families have been hosting visitors for decades. Conditions are simple, so bring warm clothes and a torch.