An island with its own identity
Chiloé is an archipelago south of Puerto Montt, and its main island, the Isla Grande, is the second largest in Chile. For centuries it was relatively isolated from the mainland, and it shows: it has its own wooden architecture, a mythology full of characters such as the Trauco, the Pincoya or the ghost ship Caleuche, a cuisine based on shellfish and native potatoes, and community traditions such as the minga. At the same time, the western side of the island holds rainforests, dunes and open Pacific beaches that few people explore.
Getting there and getting around
From Puerto Montt you travel overland to Pargua and from there cross the Chacao channel on a ferry that takes about 30 minutes and runs very frequently during the day. Buses from Puerto Montt to Ancud and Castro cross on the same ferry. There are also flights to Mocopulli airfield, near Castro and Dalcahue.
On the island, distances are short but public transport to rural areas is limited. To visit churches, beaches and the national park freely, the most practical option is to have a car or go out with a local guide. Castro, in the centre of the island, is the most convenient base; Ancud, in the north, is well placed for the penguin colony.
The wooden churches, a World Heritage Site
The archipelago has more than 150 wooden churches and chapels, and 16 of them were declared World Heritage by UNESCO between 2000 and 2001. Their origins go back to the Jesuit missions of the 17th and 18th centuries, which developed a way of building with native timber, joinery and carpentry techniques that was continued by the Franciscans and the communities themselves.
Some must-sees:
- The church of San Francisco in Castro, on the town square, with its colourful facade.
- The church of Dalcahue, by the sea and next to the craft market.
- The church of Achao, on Quinchao island, one of the oldest in the group. It is reached by a short ferry crossing from Dalcahue.
- The churches of Nercón, Chonchi and Vilupulli, in the centre and south of the island.
Opening hours vary, and some churches only open for mass or in high season. Be respectful of religious services if they coincide with your visit.
The stilt houses of Castro
The palafitos are wooden houses built on stilts at the water's edge, designed so that families had access to both the sea and the land. Castro has several stilt-house neighbourhoods, such as Gamboa and Pedro Montt, and many have become cafés, guesthouses and shops. The best time to see them is at high tide, when the water reaches the stilts; at low tide the muddy seabed appears and the scene changes completely.
Penguins at Puñihuil
Off Puñihuil beach, on the west coast near Ancud, there are islets where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest, one of the few places where both species can be seen together. The islets are a protected area and landing is not allowed: they are visited in small boats that leave from the beach itself, on a trip of about 40 minutes. The penguin season runs roughly from September to March, and departures depend on the weather, the swell and the tides. Besides penguins, sea lions, cormorants and other seabirds are commonly seen.
Chiloé National Park and Cucao
On the Pacific coast, Chiloé National Park protects evergreen forests, peat bogs, lakes and dunes. The most visited entrance is at Cucao, just over an hour from Castro, where short trails through the forest and towards the dunes and the beach are suitable for almost everyone. The longer trails head into remote areas and require more preparation. Always bring waterproof clothing: on this coast it rains often, whatever the season.
The Muelle de las Almas
Near Cucao, at Punta Pirulil, a wooden structure built by the artist Marcelo Orellana juts out over the void on a clifftop facing the Pacific. It is inspired by the belief that the souls of the dead waited on this coast for a boatman to carry them to the other side. It is reached by a walk of a little over an hour there and back across private land, which charges an entrance fee; the path is often muddy and in high season there is a queue for the photo on the pier.
Culture and food
- Curanto is the signature dish: shellfish, meat, potatoes, milcao and chapaleles cooked on hot stones in a pit in the ground, covered with nalca leaves. Many places prepare it in a pot (curanto en olla); the traditional "al hoyo" version is easier to find in high season.
- The Dalcahue craft market offers woollen textiles, basketry and local products, and has a food hall serving home cooking.
- Chilote mythology is present in crafts, museums and the stories of the islanders themselves; a local guide can tell stories that do not appear in the brochures.
Best time to go
Chiloé has a mild, damp climate, with rain spread throughout the year. From December to March there are more clear days, more pleasant temperatures and more services open, but also more visitors. Outside those months the island is quieter and more authentic, but expect rain and bring suitable clothing. To see penguins, aim for September to March.
How many days to spend
In two days you can see Castro, one or two churches and the penguin colony. With three or four days you can add Dalcahue, Quinchao island, Chiloé National Park and the Muelle de las Almas without rushing. Anyone who wants to hike the long trails or explore the smaller islands needs more time.
Local guides in Chiloé
On Trekonda you can browse the nature experiences in Chiloé and the local guides in Chiloé, and message them directly, with no intermediary commission. A Chilote guide can help you combine churches, tides and boat schedules, which on the island change from day to day.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get across to Chiloé?
By ferry from Pargua across the Chacao channel, a crossing of about 30 minutes. There are also flights to Mocopulli, near Castro.
When can you see penguins at Puñihuil?
Roughly from September to March, subject to the weather and sea conditions.
Can you get around Chiloé without a car?
Yes, but it takes more time: there are buses between the main towns, though they are scarce to rural areas. A guided outing takes care of the transport.
What can you see in Chiloé in one day?
Castro with its stilt houses and church, and Dalcahue with its market. For the island's nature, check the nature outings in Chiloé.